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Donna

© Sturlini - <strong>Biker</strong> in black calf leather

Biker in black calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Biker</strong> in burgundy calf leather

Biker in burgundy calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Chelsea Boot</strong> in black calf leather

Chelsea Boot in black calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Chelsea Boot</strong> in black suede

Chelsea Boot in black suede

© Sturlini - <strong>Chelsea Boot</strong> in burgundy calf leather

Chelsea Boot in burgundy calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Chelsea Boot</strong> in cognac calf leather

Chelsea Boot in cognac calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Chelsea Boot</strong> in olive suede

Chelsea Boot in olive suede

© Sturlini - <strong>Loafer</strong> in brown suede

Loafer in brown suede

© Sturlini - <strong>Loafer</strong> in cognac calf leather

Loafer in cognac calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Wallabee Style</strong> in black suede

Wallabee Style in black suede

© Sturlini - <strong>Wallabee Style</strong> in chocolate calf leather

Wallabee Style in chocolate calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Wallabee Style</strong> in chocolate suede

Wallabee Style in chocolate suede

© Sturlini - <strong>One Eye Moc</strong> in beige suede shearling

One Eye Moc in beige suede shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>One Eye Moc</strong> in camel suede shearling

One Eye Moc in camel suede shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>One Eye Moc</strong> in chocolate suede shearling

One Eye Moc in chocolate suede shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Penny Loafer</strong> in dark brown calf leather

Penny Loafer in dark brown calf leather

© Sturlini - <strong>Mary Jane</strong> in black shearling

Mary Jane in black shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Mary Jane</strong> in brown shearling

Mary Jane in brown shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Mary Jane</strong> in navy shearling

Mary Jane in navy shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Mary Jane</strong> in off-white shearling

Mary Jane in off-white shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Mary Jane</strong> in rust shearling

Mary Jane in rust shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Sneaker</strong> in chocolate shearling

Sneaker in chocolate shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Sneaker</strong> in off-white shearling

Sneaker in off-white shearling

© Sturlini - <strong>Sneaker</strong> in honey shearling

Sneaker in honey shearling

Hed Mayner has a coping mechanism for hard times, even when record-breaking heat waves meld into a never-ending thrum of bad news. “I’m not into that kind of world, I’m living in my own,” the designer said backstage in the gilded, chandeliered, and mercifully air-conditioned Cercle des Armées. Not that it’s a matter of willful ignorance, he added. “I’m just trying to stay positive.”

Where previous collections have been high-volume, this season was all about fabrics, Mayner noted. “It’s about cleansing and creating something more sharp and clear, a bit more minimalistic but still very maximalist in the touch.”

Paring back to artist’s essentials, he focused on unconventional materials like densely woven white nylon mesh or jute canvas, a humble cloth that, when coated with white paint, produced a croc-like effect. Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be craquelure.

“There’s something random about it,” the designer allowed, “but it’s a controlled random. There’s a lot of intention.” As quirky as they may sound, those pieces landed well. In a more subdued register, a jute top with trumpet sleeves glistened as if shellacked and was paired on the runway with ample trousers in burgundy vegan leather.

Throughout, the designer focused on the gesture of cut in serene colors like sky blue, pale yellow, ecru, and rust. His tailoring chops shone discreetly on a parka in ecru cotton canvas that was short in front, like a bomber, and longer in back. Likewise, a jacket, its shoulder seams shifted back a few degrees, projected grace and confidence. A slim-cut double-breasted jacket in crinkled dry cotton looked polished over a trouser in the same material, cut roomy and drop-crotched like a judo pant for ease of movement. In the spirit of dressing “fast and random,” outerwear included a sleeveless overcoat whose armholes dipped to the waist for easy layering over jackets. A kimono-like jute trench, shown here with a periwinkle polo sweater, was slit high in back, its panels held in place by a back tab—unless the wearer chooses to just wear them loose. That “fly or die,” as Mayner calls it, is one of the reasons why he has serious cred as a designer’s designer.

Quietly compelling accessories included whimsical, cloud-like fabric bracelets, Joaneta sneakers developed with Barcelona-based Aro, and a collaboration with the Tuscan shoemaker STURLINI that resulted in ultra-flat, sky blue Oxfords, whipstitched canvas booties and suede “sock” moccasins.